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Materials

Current material sources and construction choices.

Hermann Oak Leather

Hermann Oak records its St. Louis tannery as family-owned across five generations since 1881. Ardent uses its Old World Russet Harness for the belt in the 11-13oz range recorded by the workshop product specification.

The tannery describes this leather as traditionally vegetable-tanned with a proprietary stuffing process that carries oils and tallows into the hide. Its listed color is natural. Ardent sources it through Springfield Leather Supply.

Handling, light, water, and wear can change the color and surface. The care page describes the workshop’s current guidance without treating every mark as proof of durability.

The dye page separates screen-color directions from current product offers.

Wickett & Craig Leather

Wickett & Craig’s Traditional Harness description says the tannery hot-stuffs it with waxes, oils, and tallows, then jack-glazes the grain. Ardent uses Traditional Harness for the belt keeper and notebook cover. The workshop specification records 4-6oz for the keeper; it does not yet record the notebook cover’s weight.

Sourced through Buckleguy.

Solid Brass Hardware

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. Its surface can oxidize to a darker patina that may be left alone or polished.

Ardent’s workshop specification names an Abbey England solid-brass buckle. Abbey England describes its Walsall foundry as operating since 1832 and using greensand casting for solid-brass buckles.

The buckle attaches by a stitched fold — the leather wraps the buckle bar and is saddle-stitched closed. No Chicago screws, no rivets. The thread is structural as well as visible.

Thread

Ardent uses Fil au Chinois Lin Câblé size 332 in écru. Maison Sajou’s product record identifies 332 as a 0.77mm waxed cable-linen thread made in France. The workshop sources it through Rocky Mountain Leather Supply.

Hand saddle-stitching works the same thread from opposite sides with two needles. A cut or worn stitch can be repaired; the construction does not make thread immune to damage.

Finish

The workshop specification records a finish made from beeswax, neatsfoot oil, and lanolin. Public copy does not claim an application method or measured result without a process record.

Any added finish can change color and hand. The workshop does not recommend adding another product without checking the care guidance first.

Care details →


Sources and construction are named so the reader can inspect the claims.